COSME | CASANOVA COOL

AT FLATIRON’S NEWEST HOT SPOT COSME, VIBRANT PLATES MIX WITH SPRING’S FIERCEST ACCESSORIES TO BRING THE FLAVORS AND SPIRIT OF MEXICO CITY TO LIFE.

Clockwise from L to R: Necklace, Alexander McQueen. 747 Madison Ave.; 212.645.1797.Alligator RK40 HandbagReed Krakoff ($25,000). 93 Greene St.; 646.596.9890; 831 Madison Ave., 212.988.0560. Gold Small Wave BangleRobert Lee Morris ($195). 400 W. Broadway; 212.431-9405. XL Stud Spike Ring ($2,000) and Double Ball Ring ($400), both Jennifer Fisher. 103 5th Ave; 888.255.0640.Nappa Leather Sandals with Crystal EmbellishmentsGiulietta ($895). Available exclusively at Barneys, 660 Madison Ave.; 212.826.8900.

Fresh off a James Beard nomination for New York’s “Best New Restaurant” (it’s one of three semi-finalists), Cosme is, without a doubt, one of the greatest restaurants to open last year. Dimly-lit and modern with a menu of small plates (“botanas”) and an expansive bar, it’s quickly become one of CITIPHILE’s favorite places for date night too.

Behind the contemporary Mexican eatery is Mexico City-raised Chef Enrique Olvera, who describes Cosme’s food as elevated riffs on his childhood favorites. “We’ll interpret street food classics like tacos al pastor or tamales, but adapt them to include fresh, local ingredients from the Hudson Valley,” he says. “Mexican cuisine doesn’t have to be burritos and enchiladas.” Evidently not as each dish oozes with flavors as bright and bold as spring’s high-octane accessories. (See something you like? Click throughout to enlarge the photos and shop the fashion.)

From L to R: Cocktail Clutch Bag, Bulgari ($5,450). 730 Fifth Ave.; 212.315.9000. Riverstone Fringe Necklace, Brunello Cucinelli ($2,245). 683 Madison Ave.; 212.813.0900. Quilted Linen Portfolio with Python Trim, Salvatore Ferragamo ($895). 655 Fifth Ave.; 212.759.3822. T Square Ring in 18k gold, Tiffany & Co. ($1,200). 727 Fifth Ave.; 212.755.8000. Grate Cuff, Jennifer Fisher ($680). 103 5th Ave; 888.255.0640.

From L to R: Cocktail Clutch Bag, Bulgari ($5,450). 730 Fifth Ave.; 212.315.9000. Riverstone Fringe Necklace, Brunello Cucinelli ($2,245). 683 Madison Ave.; 212.813.0900. Quilted Linen Portfolio with Python Trim, Salvatore Ferragamo ($895). 655 Fifth Ave.; 212.759.3822. T Square Ring in 18k gold, Tiffany & Co. ($1,200). 727 Fifth Ave.; 212.755.8000. Grate Cuff, Jennifer Fisher ($680). 103 5th Ave; 888.255.0640.

To start, a buttery scallop aguachile echoes the iridescence of a champagne Bulgari evening bag and python-trimmed Salvatore Ferragamo clutch— delicately garnished with jicama, wasabi, cucumber and lime, the dish appears just as elegant too. On the opposite spectrum, an oceanic uni tostada is balanced with avocado and bone marrow; it’s creamy, rich and, yes, unequivocally satisfying.

It’s Olvera’s dedication to authenticity that impresses most: importing classical ingredients like heirloom corn, beans and dried chiles, each bite of succulent smoked sepia with ruby red salsa or earthy, house-made tostada seems to pluck you farther from Manhattan and straight into Mexico.

From L to R: Triple Ball Cuff, Jennifer Fisher ($945). 103 5th Ave; 888.255.0640. Bianca Gold Bracelet, Chloé ($695). Editorialist.com. T Pin Pendant ($690) and Ankle Wrap Sandal in Cobalt ($850), both Reed Krakoff. 93 Greene St.; 646.596.9890; 831 Madison Ave., 212.988.0560.

From L to R: Triple Ball Cuff, Jennifer Fisher ($945). 103 5th Ave; 888.255.0640. Bianca Gold Bracelet, Chloé ($695). Editorialist.com. T Pin Pendant ($690) and Ankle Wrap Sandal in Cobalt ($850), both Reed Krakoff. 93 Greene St.; 646.596.9890; 831 Madison Ave., 212.988.0560.

Heavy on seafood, a broiled red snapper sits in a lime green thai hoja santa salsa with chayote and scallions; its contemporary accompaniment of zucchini noodles befitting of modern jewelry like a sleek Jennifer Fisher cuff and sculpted Reed Krakoff pendant. More conducive to sharing though is the restaurant’s duck carnitas for two: a tender, melt-in-your mouth duck breast served with a rainbow of accoutrements including onions, radishes, tomatillo, salsa verde and house-made corn tortillas. The sheer production of the build-your-own tacos dish is as delightfully playful as, say, this season’s leafy Alexander McQueen necklace, a teal alligator Reed Krakoff bag or Giulietta’s crystal-encrusted sandals in striking poppy.

True Blue Sandal, Christian Louboutin ($925). 59 Horatio St.; 212.255.1910.

True Blue Sandal, Christian Louboutin ($925). 59 Horatio St.; 212.255.1910.

From L to R: Garden Fence Bracelet, Lele Sadoughi ($295). MVSA Handbag, Bulgari ($4,600). 730 Fifth Ave.; 212.315.9000. Cora Sandals, Christian Louboutin ($845). 967 Madison Ave.; 212.396.1884.

From L to R: Garden Fence Bracelet, Lele Sadoughi ($295). MVSA Handbag, Bulgari ($4,600). 730 Fifth Ave.; 212.315.9000. Cora Sandals, Christian Louboutin ($845). 967 Madison Ave.; 212.396.1884.

Just as colorful too is Cosme’s lobster pibil, though with feathery micro-greens and whisper-thin magenta and purple radishes, the dish feels inherently more feminine. A jade Lele Sadoughi bracelet and heart-embellished Christian Louboutin stilettos mirror its girlishness, while the sky-high heel and exotic skin of a Bulgari bag poke at the crustacean’s hidden punch (Olvera’s secret ingredient? Spicy chorizo).

On our last visit, we paired the pibil with a pretty-in-pink, hibiscus-infused Pisco Sour (an off-menu item available upon request). It was lovely, as are all of their drinks. In fact, in a city where it can be illogically difficult to find a space with a bar program on par with the food or vice versa (especially when it comes to Mexican eateries), Cosme has yet to fail us on this front either. There are fresh agua frescas, a library of tequila and mezcal, and carefully crafted cocktails like the Striptease (Vida mezcal, Dolin Blanc vermouth, guanabana, lime and absinthe salt) and the Bonita Applebum (Lairds Bonded apple brandy, Avua cachaça amburana, smoked apple juice, cinnamon and lime), the latter of which finds the perfect match in a color-blocked Christian Louboutin shoe— think saucy with a touch of spice. End your meal with the restaurant’s infamous (though bizarre-sounding) corn husk meringue with sweet corn mousse— airy, light, creamy and divine, it’ll be the sweetest surprise of all.

Cosme, 35 E 21st St. btwn Park Ave. and Broadway; 212.913.9659. CP

Shop

Street Talkerinstagram

Instagram did not return a 200.